Enduring Charm of Fraser's Hill

Enduring charm
Wednesday September 3, 2008
Over a Cuppa by Hoo Ban Khee

Fraser’s Hill has managed to retain its character over the years.

MANY travel brochures describe Fraser’s Hill as the “Little England” of Malaysia. It is an idyllic and tranquil resort perched on top of the Titiwangsa mountain range some 1,500 metres above sea level.

There are scores of colonial-style stone houses scattered in the lush tropical forests of the seven hills that form the mountain resort.

Of course, a few century-old Tudor-style stone houses perched on hilltops are not enough to justify that claim – even if the weather up there is pleasantly cool and crisp.

Nonetheless, all these years, Fraser’s Hill has managed to retain its character and remains a pristine hill resort, an ideal escape from the sweltering heat and hustle and bustle of the city life in Kuala Lumpur.

Along the same mountain range, Cameron Highlands has been ravaged by over-development and Genting Highlands has become even more commercialised, but Fraser’s Hill remains a balm for tired souls.

Admittedly, there is nothing much one can do in Fraser’s Hill except rest and enjoy the peace and quiet. Here there is no pressure to look for the best restaurant or the best shopping arcade or even the hottest discotheque.

Unless you are a golf enthusiast, a keen bird-watcher or enjoy jungle-trekking, there is nothing much you can do except to spend quality time with your family which many busy parents have missed doing.

Fraser’s Hill is about two hours’ drive south of Kuala Lumpur – an hour to Kuala Kubu Baru at the foothill and another 40 minutes or less to the hilltop. It’s not too far for a holiday and it used to be very popular with the locals – and Singaporeans – before Genting Highlands came into the picture.

If you are from the Klang Valley, it is closer than Cameron Highlands. Because of its accessibility, many are regular visitors as accommodation is affordable.

To stay in one of those colonial-style bungalows is quite an experience as most of them have fantastic views overlooking deep valleys.

My recent holiday there was like a trip down memory lane. Many old timers have good memories of the restaurant at the Rest House at the Gap, a half-way stop before reaching the peak.

The restaurant was once run by a Hainanese family and in true tradition, they served excellent Western cuisine. From the Gap, one can either take the winding road to the hilltop or continue the journey to Bentong and Kuala Lipis in Pahang.

Before the new road up the hilltop was built, cars had to line up and wait for their turn to go up as the old road was too narrow for two-way traffic. Cars going uphill could do so during odd hours and those coming down travelled during even hours.

While waiting, most tourists took the opportunity to have their meals at the Gap and freshen up after the long drive.

Years ago, there were one or two coffee-shops operating opposite the Rest House further down the road. They served local fare and their curry laksa was one of the best.

My recent trip was quite a disappointment. The Rest House was boarded up for renovation and the old coffee-shops were gone.

I was told that the new road had been closed for a year or so because of a major landslide and would take a while to reopen.

And so we had to go uphill using the old road. A long queue of cars was waiting and there was not much one could do. A burger stall by the guardhouse did roaring business as stomachs growled. It had a captive market.

When we arrived at the hilltop, we realised that except for the private hotels and resorts, almost the whole town comprising a few shops and eateries was under renovation.

It was quite empty and so we drove round the area searching for interesting places to visit.

To our dismay, we found that most bungalows at the best locations are now owned by big corporations or utility companies.

Where once visitors came and enjoyed the breathtaking views, these bungalows are now out of bounds to the public. Big signs at the gate warn against trespassing.

Unless you have booked into one of those hotels or resort apartments, all that is left for you to enjoy is a little playground where visitors were having some fun with their children.

Still, we enjoyed the cool weather and tranquillity.

Fraser’s Hill was named after Louis James Fraser, a Scottish whose original idea was to explore for gold. Instead, he found tin and made a fortune mining tin using Chinese coolies.

It was only in 1922 that the town was named after him. At that time what is now Ye Olde Smokehouse was used as a Red Cross convalescent centre for injured British soldiers. Those days mules were the only means of transportation.

Fraser disappeared mysteriously after making all his money.

Fraser’s Hill still retains its old name although many towns and cities have their names changed to reflect a more nationalistic character.

Fraser’s Hill is an established name and a strong brand. It has a personality and let’s hope it will stays that way. -- The Star Lifestyle.